Sulawesi Utara

The northern tip of Sulawesi island was a zenith of both geography and intensity. It was here that we experienced both the warmest welcome and the worst corruption.

In Manado we were greeted with a full-scale model of Arka Kinari perched on a mountaintop overlooking our anchorage. It was built as a backdrop for a long evening of rituals and celebrations by native elders and local musicians to welcome Arka Kinari into their lands.

Shortly afterwards we found ourselves trapped in sticky web of corruption, held hostage for four long days by the syahbandar of Bitung. Syahbandar is the local title for harbormaster.

I sometimes I wish things could be just a little less intense. But like a full moon’s spring tides, we can do nothing to stop the highs from creeping higher, nor the lows from sinking lower.